Unusual Takes

Beaujolais is not just candy-bright, nor is Pinot Noir only made in one part of France. Deciding to taste a cru-level Beaujolais of quality against an oak-matured Alsace Pinot Noir of quality, I was trying to examine how two wines unusual for their genre fared in comparison to each other, especially since they both are ruby-red, evoke red-fruits and have the same alchohol content.

The last time I tried Lucien Albrecht's Amplus Pinot Noir, it seemed somewhat unbalanced and one note, but the 2003 I opened tonight has a lot of depth, from its funky, green nose (read between the lines) to its spicy, hot palate paired with a lively acidity. The nose is full of raspberries and macerated strawberries, while the palate packs a lively combination of red plum, stewed strawberries, raspberries and spicy greens. Even at five years old, the vegetal quality is fresh and spicy, and vies with the fruit for attention.

The Laurent Martray Brouilly Vielles Vignes 2005, ruby-red with a magenta edge, has a nose full of still-green fruit, and band-aid box, with a touch of acetone. As unappealing as this sounds, the nose is vibrant and inviting, and the lovely pure-fruit palate of unripe strawberries, huckleberry syrup and fresh raspberries is delightfully balanced, while fruit-forward and simple.

Besides color, one would not confuse these wines. The eighteen months of oak aging that the "Amplus" undergoes would squealch the most charming aspects of the Brouilly, and there's an earthy quality to Pinot Noir, regardless of its viticulture and elaboration, that makes it stand out from a well-made, thirst quenching charmer like the Martray. There's more tension in the Pinot, which makes for more interesting drinking, but as a fellow wine aficianado once remarked "All those big, hot, tannic wines just make me crave a well-made Beaujolais." Certainly not a shameful craving.