Saturday, April 5, 2008
Pinot where you least expect it
I got a bottle of Sancerre a few days ago, and dutifully chilled it. Imagine my surprise when the Franck Millet 2005 Sancerre I'd put in the refrigerator the night before poured red. I knew in the back of my mind that red wines are produced in Sancerre, and that their production actually outstrips white Sancerre, but the Central vineyards so immediately say Sauvignon Blanc to me, that it didn't even cross my mind I'd be drinking red Sancerre this evening. I actually opened it last night, but my arctic, ghetto refrigerator had so distorted the possible flavors that I let it warm up over today. Conclusively, I'd take an Alsace Pinot or a Spatburgunder over a red Sancerre, but this is a fresh strawberry-scented, mildly tannic refreshing wine, with a surprisingly long finish. I always enjoy an oddball, and I'll happily enjoy this wine over a few days, but I think I'm still getting over the shock. I love the sui generis balance of white Sancerre, and the red Sancerre isn't quite earthy enough to capture my imagination. Too tomato-acidic, and too short on real minerality, with a profile of freshly-turned humus, rather than the gorgeous crushed rock austerity I was craving. Grist for the mill, nonetheless.
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