In Love with Loire Cabernet Franc

Having sampled my second bottle of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, I think it's love at first sip. Frédéric Mabilieau is producing a subtle, nuanced St. Nicolas de Bourgueil with his Les Rouilleres bottling. With a light body, slight tannins and a mysteriously long finish, this cabernet franc recalls a "torta della nonna" with it's spice notes and slight nuttiness, which is reminiscent of almond flour on the palate. There are suggestions of mint and sage, but this is all fruit, not bubblegum fruit, but stewed fruit, perhaps a compote of the fruits of the woods. A bouquet of geranium gradually emerges as you make your way through a glass of this understated wine. If a blockbuster Napa Cabernet like Grace Family Vineyards is like Catherine Deneuve, this wine is like Rachel Griffiths. A different animal.