Zesty Saumur-Champigny

Thierry Germain, Bordelais by birth, began producing Saumur wines in 1991. Pushing the envelope of Cabernet Franc production in the Loire, the stainless steel fermented, biodynamic "Domaine de Roches Neuves" Saumur-Champigny 2006 is a racy, multilayered wine. The nose is wet earth, and while the mouthfeel might call a Beujolais cru to mind, the emphasis in this wine is on the herbaceous rather than fruit, with its notes of sage, rosemary and anise, and an almost resinous quality. The finish is full of sour cherries and brightly tannic, with a winning acidity that lingers on the palate. There's a charred meat quality to this wine which lends it richness, a certain raspberry vibrancy, and an almost mentholated quality in the finish which provides an extra note of complexity.