The Sori Paitin Serra Boella Barbera d'Alba 2006 is a minx of a wine. Its nose is stewed fruit, but the palate is green and sweet, with strawberries, blueberries and sour cherry. There is citrus, notably grapefruit, in the acid notes of this wine. The aftertaste is both clean like haricots verts and savory like bacon. Only the tannins give away the fact that this Piedmont Red is not a brisk, vivacious white wine. With a level of acidity almost effervescent in its intensity, and a complicated bouquet indebted as much to the berry patch as the vegetable garden, this lively Barbera has a quirky personality and a balance between fruit and grip that delights.